There has been a sudden change around us last week. Since Cabo Verde, we had lost tracks of the seasons. It was june, hot and sunny: Northern summer. Then it was July, Southern winter in Brazil: hot and sunny again. We sailed down the Brazilian coast in fair breezes, bright days and fresh nights, except[…]
Sonate arrived in Salvador da Bahia, Brazil, on the 2nd of July, after 22 days at sea. The tightly crowded winter squalls held the shore hidden from her until the last moment: when the clouds lifted around noon, they revealed the broken high-rise building skyline of the Eastern neighbourhoods of Salvador. Not a tree in[…]
Our boat is usually a wealthy little country: we never lack food, water, electricity, medicine or books. But in Cabo Verde, clean, fresh water is simply not available. It has been nearly three months on the water since we left Marseille, and we are now readying ourselves for the leap across the Atlantic, from Praia, Cabo[…]
A short and unillustrated note about the latest weeks of daydreaming onboard. The unambiguous conclusion: much reflexion is needed about fish. Las Vueltas, Canarias: a large ray lurks on the muddy bottom of the harbour. A row of German holidaymakers, children and unemployed fishermen gesticulate at it from the dock. The beast hovers in a[…]
On April 14th – one month precisely since our departure – Gibraltar is crossed and the Atlantic lies before us. The old sea tried its best to retain us, using the very same tricks that convinced generations of Greek mariners that the world ended between the Pillars of Hercules – the sharp Rock of Gibraltar[…]
Our captain, Marc, and skipper, Flo, have known the sea long and well. But neither me, nor Jean, nor Adrien (who joins us for the first few weeks), have even so little as spent a night on duty out at sea. The first day goes well. As we pass the island of the Frioul, the[…]
Sonate is gone. On the shipyards of l’Estaque, there’s a large empty space, splattered with paint in the shape of a ship.
Although Florian still goes about fixing the position with his sextant and a pencil, such a long cruise is made a little bit easier and safer by a good electronic navigation system – and recording all that data will greatly help for the analysis of biological samples. It is a little bit messier, but far[…]